Has anybody an idea how to remove the Well Moldings ( http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Convertible-Well-Modlings )  without breaking them into pieces? Unfortunately, the Ford Shop Manual doesn't talk about this and even after lengthy staring at the moldings, I can't figure it. What I found out so far by some web research: apparently, the upper well moldings are clipped on the lower well mouldings which in turn are attached to the body by a number of studs. But how to detach the upper molding? First remove the trunk hinges?? And then start yanking it off from where...???

Any hints and suggestions highly appreciated!!

Thanks, Joe

Hello,  I am glad you asked this question I am in need of repairing a RH side molding, are you doing both moldings? Sorry for not having a reply to this I have yet to start the dissasembly. My initial thought would be to ask a bodyshop. Also, you might find a resource in mustang pars specialist online.

you'll need either a 9mm or 11/32 socket and/or wrench and phillips screwdriver (a 90deg is even better for the rear).  You should have a nut near the front tips of the LH & RH pieces (w/ top down - roll up qtr windows and remove speaker grill and speaker; find nut near the tip pointed towards front seats and remove); one or two screw on down-slope, nut in middle, and two nuts at the end on the elbow ( 4xnuts and 2xscrews per LH/RH piece).  The rear piece is removed the same (approx 7 nuts).  This is for the upper pieces.  The inner molding (LH & RH only) is riveted to the body and IF it needs to be replaced, you'll only need to drill out about 6 or 7 rivets per side (can't remember rivet size).  Usually, your lower moldings only need to be cleaned up and not replaced. 

Run you finger under the lip of the conv. molding and remove any barrier tape and puddy clumps.  You'll find/feel all the nuts doing this.  Place a non hardening puddy/resin/epoxy/adhesive...whatever over your hardware and reapply either a very thin weatherstrip or duct tape/barrier tape over it to avoid tearing/snagging your top.

 If you replace one, I'd paint all to match or just buy all outer pieces at once.  They are fairly cheap.

Great - thanks a lot! This clarifies it. I was able to locate the nuts to the front, but the real eye opener was the statement about "non hardening puddy". Apparently, someone had used really hardening puddy on my car so it never occured to me that this has to be removed before getting access to all the other hidden nuts. And since the right lower well molding is totally misaligned there must have been some not-much-of-an-expert at work...