More stopping capability is never a bad thing in a Mustang.  More often than not, the brakes are the last system of a Mustang to be upgraded.  One of the newest items in our ever growing lineup of awesome new Mustang Parts is the SVE 13" Cobra Style Front Brake Upgrade for 1994-2004 Mustang GT, V6, Cobra, & Mach 1.  The Ford SVT Cobra brakes that Ford Racing Performance Parts used to offer are all gone and no longer available. Latemodel Restoration Supply has put this front brake kit together since there were no affordable solutions on the market. We have done this to fill an important gap in the Mustang perforamance parts offering.

The SVE Mustang Brake Kit consists of red powdercoat PBR Cobra Style Front Calipers with a black SVE logo, semi-metallic performance street/occasional track brake pads, PowerSlot Slotted Front Rotors, & StopTech stainless braided front brake hoses.  The 13" SVE Mustang Front Brake Upgrade uses Cobra style Calipers, Pads, Hoses, & Rotors, so there are no exotic parts & replacements are readily available when the time comes.  17" or larger wheels are required when using Cobra style 13" Brakes.  This brake kit can also be used on your Fox Mustang when upgrading to 5-lug, but that is another blog entirely.  

In this installation, we'll cover the basics of how to improve your Mustang Brake System in an afternoon without breaking the bank (again with the puns...).  Basically, we'll be putting these:

On this:

Yeah, I know it's not a 94-04 Mustang, but it is already equipped with SN95 Brakes, so the process will be the same.

Start by lifting the front of your Mustang in the air & supporting it with jack stands & removing the front wheels.

Using a 1/2" ratchet or breakover bar, remove the two 15mm bolts that hold the caliper & bracket to the spindle.  The bolts have thread locker on them from the factory, so they'll be a little tight coming off.  (I removed the caliper from the bracket for picture taking purposes, you won't need to.)

Using an old coat hanger or sturdy piece of wire, hang your old caliper up out of the way for the time being.

Remove your old rotor.  If your old rotor was siezed to the hub (like mine was!), apply a bit of penetrating oil where the rotor meets the center of the hub & where the lug studs protrude.  It doesn't take much so don't get crazy.  Use a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet & it will come right off.  Clean any rust off the hub after you remove the rotor.

Remove your new slotted front rotor from the box & clean both the front & rear braking surfaces with brake parts cleaner.  Apply a thin layer of anti-sieze lubricant to the back face of the new rotor where it meets the hub & on the inner lip.  Don't load it up, a very little bit goes a long way!  This will help keep the new rotor from trying to permanently mate itself to the spindle hub.  Also, make sure you have the correct rotor for the side of the Mustang you are working on.  They are affixed with stickers marked L & R to help you out.  (R is passinger & L is driver.)

Go ahead & install your new rotor.  Starting to look better, isn't it?

Apply a bit of Loctite to your 15mm retaining bolts.  Now you can grab that nice new red front caliper already attached to the bracket & loaded with pads & slide it over the nice new rotor. Make sure you have the correct caliper for the side of the Mustang you are working on.  The bleeder will point up & the hose connection will be toward the bottom if installed correctly.  Re-install the 15mm retaining bolts* & torque to 95 lb-ft.  Looking real good now!
*If you are uncomfortable re-using these bolts, we have new Ford replacements available.  1994-04 Mustang Brake Caliper Bracket Bolt

Both braided stainless brake hoses included in the kit are identical & can be used on either the right or left side.  You'll find that there are both fine thread & coarse thread banjo bolts in with the hoses.  The SVE calipers in this kit use the fine thread banjo bolts.  Orient a banjo bolt & 2 of the brass washers like so.

Remove the plastic plug from the rear of the caliper.

Install the new hose like so & snug the banjo bolt just enough to keep the hose in place.  We'll torque it in a bit.

Grab a drain pan & slide it underneath the brake area.  Have your brake parts cleaner & a shop towel ready too.  Using a 7/16" line wrench loosen the brake line nut, but do not fully unscrew it.  I stress using a line wrench, because a regular open end wrench has the possibility of rounding off the line nut.  Not a fun thing!

Using a pair of pliers, remove the brake hose retaining clip.

Working quickly, fully unscrew the brake hard line nut & remove the old brake hose from the bracket.  Insert the end of the new hose in to the bracket lining up the fitting with the locating tab in the bracket.  Screw the brake hardline nut in to the new brake hose & snug it down. Quickly spray off any surface with brake fluid on it with brake parts cleaner & wipe dry. 

Re-install the brake hose retaining clip removed earlier.  Finish tightening the hardline nut.  The Ford spec on this is 11 lb-ft, but "hand tight" is all you'll need it to be.  Make sure that the brake hose routing clears everything, adjust as need be, & go back & torque the banjo bolt to 14 lb-ft.

Unless you have a one man brake bleeder, enlist a helper to assist you in bleeding the brakes.  Make sure to keep the master cylinder topped off with high quality brake fluid like Motorcraft DOT3 or Motul RBF600.  If you are unsure how to properly bleed brakes, here is a great writeup from StopTech: How to Bleed Brakes - The Right Way.

Put a daub of anti-sieze lubricant on each lug stud & slide your wheel back on.  Torque your lug nuts to 100 lb-ft.

Put your Mustang back on the ground & admire your awesome new brakes! 

Time to give it the old "road test"!  You'll notice immediately the firmer, more positive pedal feel.  At your first complete stop you'll realize just how much less effort it took you to stop your Mustang in much less distance than stock.  This improves as the brakes build up a little heat.  There are different schools of thought when it comes to bedding in new prake pads & rotors.  Some say it isn't necessary & some swear it is the only way.  Here is another good article from StopTech that covers the process: Pad & Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions, & Proceedures.  You can read up & make your own educated decision of what works for you.

Now, lets talk about making the rear match the front.  To get the rear caliper the same hue, grab a red caliper paint kit like this one: G2 Red Caliper Paint Kit.  For rear brake rotors, we have the 1994-2004 Mustang GT/V6 PowerSlot Rear Rotors & 1994-2004 Mustang Cobra/Bullitt/Mach 1 PowerSlot Rear Rotors.  For rear brake pads, the 1994-2004 Mustang GT/V6 Hawk HPS Rear Pads & 1994-2004 Mustang Cobra/Bullitt/Mach 1 Hawk HPS Rear Pads are a great match to the fronts.

Finally, go enjoy your newfound stopping power!