I just replaced them in my 88, however I tried a different method where I just removed the actuator from the bracket and didn't have to bother with the rivet. Just spray some lube onto the two ears holding the actuator in the bracket and push it down to remove. Then raise it up to seperate the pin from the latch. Re install the new one the same way with a little lube to help it slide into the mount.

While you're in there, clean and relube the latch mechanism so everything works freely. The aftermarket actuators seem to fail quickly having to work a dirty, gummed up latch.

I don't think the no-rivet solution can work with a stuck actuator.  I have one of those right now in my '93 fox body... and I would *really* like to get it replaced without needing to buy a rivet gun.  I'm thinking I could cut the old actuator rod with a dremel tool, assuming I could wedge it in there.  Any thoughts?

Josh,

Not sure what you mean by "stuck actuator" Mine was inop in the un lock position but there was no problem getting the rod un hooked once the actuator was free from the bracket. Also the rod on the original actuator screws in & out of the actuator ( I'm guessing as adjustment for different applications as the actuator P/N is the same for most cars) Once you get the actuator out of the bracket you should be able to swing it up 90 deg and disengage the rod from the door.

The replacement actuator I had came with several different length rods but the shortest one is what was used in the mustang.

Hope this helps

I have thought about adding electric door locks to my 1982 Mustang so I can use a remote lock / security system.  Is this a big deal?  Does the stock wiring harness support electric door locks?

Good additions guys!  Keep 'em coming!

Rodney Stanton - It's not a big ordeal at all.  My suggestion is to pick what mobile electronics shop you want to do the install & let them handle the whole thing.  It is not an uncommon job & they probably have the systems in stock.

buy the large rivet gun from harbor freight when its on sale- inexpensive, i paid less than $20

I used the "lube the gromets" method and it worked. Took a little patience and muscle, but it worked. Kudos K98Dave.

Actually not to impressed with the casting of parts took alot of reaming of the actuator retainer hole to get the supplied rivet to fit, as well as the latch hole was too small and it needed to be sanded down on the base to seat correctly to insert the retainer pin. But I guess it's to be expected since it's an aftermarket fit. Also pro tip make sure your windows are up prior to starting the work gives you more room to work with once panel is off.

Yeah,  I have done this several times because I didn't want to buy one of those huge rivit guns.

If you have a sticking one, you can soak it down with WD-40, CRC Power Lube, or even white grease, but eventually it will start to stick again.

Anyway, with the actuator out of the door, fish a 1/4" bolt backwards through the mounting bracket.  It needs to be a short one, 1/2" long if I remember.  Might even have to pop the actuator out of the bracket, and then pop it back in.  With the bolt sticking through the bracket, re-install the actuator in the latch & door, and stick the bolt through the hole in the door from the inside.  If you hold it right, you can put a nut and lock washer on from the outside and tighten it up.  Again, make sure it's a short bolt so it doesn't hit the door jam.  

I put in my new actuator but when I press the unlock button the passenger door unlocks but the drivers side door (the one I replaced) locks and vise versa. They operate opposite of eachotger. What did I do wrong?

Rich - It's darn near impossible to do with the factory connector, but could you have plugged it in backwards?  When the stock actuator was functional, was it operating properly?

I just bought the car so I'm not sure how it operated but I took the actuator back and got a different one from a different company and it works perfectly fine now. I think the actuator was wired wrong or something.

MY DOOR WONT UNLOCK. HOW DO I GET THE DOOR UNLOCKED TO REPLACE THE ACTUATOR?

ROB - If you can get in the car through the other door, you should be able to open the inoperative door from the inside.

I TRIED TO OPEN THE DOOR WITH THE KEY FROM THE OUTSIDE AND TRIED FROM THE INSIDE AND THE DOOR WONT UN LOCK

USING THIS '90 MUSTANG AS SECOND VEHICLE AND DONT WANT TO PUT A LOT OF MONEY INTO IT.  IF THE ACTUATOR IS REMOVED COMPLETELY WILL THE DOOR LOCK WITH A KEY.   I WAS TOLD IT WOULD.  SOURCE NOT REALLY CREDIBLE.    RIGHT NOW IT WONT LOCK WITH SWITCH, KNOB OR KEY

I have a 91 Mustang LX. I can use the keys to lock and unlock my door. But my lock and unlock switches for my door, and hatchback do not work. Any ideas how to fix this?

It seems as if maybe some fuses are blown vnilla77 you may nwat to start there.

rob  you could try a jimmy bar and see if u can first attempt to unlock it that way.

the little bag with multiple rods is included with each order right?

also im assuming those actuators and supplied rods will fit an 86 thunderbird

Hopefully this is a silly question with an easy answer...

I installed one of these using the original rivet and my door locks work on a "when I feel like it" basis.  What that means is: About 50% of the time, the door locks and unlocks fine with the switch.  The other 50% of the time, when I press the button it either won't lock or unlock and I have to either use my key or push down on the knob manually.  This has done this since I installed it.

Where did I go wrong?

Thanks!

Sorry for the late response guys!

Sebastian - The bag of multiple ends is included with every actuator, however this actuator is not listed to fit a Thunderbird.

Steve - Souns like you need to lube up your latch assembly.  I've experienced the same situation before & this is what cured it.

I need to replace the door hinge tensioners on a 1992 convertible

what is the best and acurate to do this??

thanks

shannon walker - I assume you are referring to the lower door hinge tension check spring.  To replace this, remove the wheel & inner fender liner.  Then unbolt the old spring & bolt the new one on.

Just a comment here, but my girlfriend has an 89 GT and I had to replace the driver side door lock actuator.  To take it out I didn't have to drill any rivets out or anything, I just spread the mounting bracket apart and slipped out the actuator one side out a time then unhooked the wiring and then the linkage.  Not a big ordeal and just as easy to put back in.  No drilling and no rivet gun required. Am I the only one who found this how to a little too involved?