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05-09 Mustang Spring Install (S197)

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Tools Needed:

  1. wrench
  2. sockets – 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm (deep), 19mm (deep)
  3. jack and jackstands
  4. Spring compressor

Spring installs on the new S197 body are extremely easy; especially after doing a few sets now. I did this last set in a little over an hour and that includes taking notes and a few pictures. With the install I used a set of GT500 STRUT MOUNTS ( part #M18183A ) . These actually made a huge difference in the ride quality and made the front feel more stable. I would say these are a must when changing out springs!

Front Spring install:


  1. Jack up the front of the car and support it with jackstands. Remove the wheel.

  2. Disconnect the brake line bracket on the back of the strut (see picture below). The bolt is 10mm. The brake line is also held in place by a push pin retainer on the side of the strut. You will need to pry it off.

  3. Unbolt the caliper bolts on the back of the brake calipers. The bolt size is 12mm. Once the caliper is unbolted, pull the caliper away from the rotor and secure it out of the way (i placed mine behind the sway bar). Make sure you don't stretch or damage the the soft brake lines.

  4. At this point you will need to place the jack under the lower front control arm and jacket it up until you put just a little pressure on the control arm. Unbolt the front sway bar link from the strut (see the picture below). The nut is a 19mm and you will need the deep socket to reach it. Once it is unbolted push it back and to the side.

  5. Make sure the jack under the control are is secure. You will now need to unbolt the strut bolts (see picture below). You will need an 18mm socket. To get these out all the way you may need to slowly let the jack down to release some of the spring pressure.                       

  6. You can now unbolt the strut mount bolts (see picture). These bolts are 13mm. If you have someone around you might want them to lend a hand holding the strut. Do not unbolt the larger strut mount bolt.

  7. Place the strut spring assembly on the ground and use a spring compressor to compress the slightly. This will keep the strut mount bolt from shooting across the room when unbolting it. Yes, I saw this happen before!!! Once the spring is compressed you can unbolt the strut mount bolt. It is a 19mm.

  8. Transfer the new spring over to the strut. Place the strut mount on top of the spring. You will notice that the strut, spring and strut mount will all line up only one way. They interlock into each other. If you have a helper, one person can put some force on top of the strut mount just enough to turn the nut a few turns. If not you can use a spring compressor to compress the spring enough to get the nut on. Tighten the nut all the way down.

  9. Before putting the strut-spring assembly back in, make sure you line up the arrow on the top of the strut mount with the wheel side of the strut. Make sure the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If you notice on the the factory strut there is a small hole in the spring perch that shows you which way the arrow should point.

  10. Once this is aligned just work in steps 1-6 in reverse and you are done. Repeat on other side and then you are done with the front!


Rear Springs: (the really easy part!)

  1. Jack up both sides of the rear and use jack stands to support the car.

  2. Once the rear section is off the ground, remove the wheels.

  3. Place the jack under the sway bar mount right below the shock. This can be seen in the picture below step # 5. Jack up the jack until it slightly lifts the rear end.

  4. Unbolt the sway bar mount seen the picture below.

  5. Unbolt the rear shock. Once it is unbolted you can start to slowly let down the jack.

  6. Once the jack is lowered, you can now remove the rear spring. Before removing look to notice the way the spring isolators are installed. They may fall out when pulling the spring out. The “hat” shaped one goes on the bottom.

  7. Place the new spring in place (with the isolators if they fall out). Repeat steps 3-5 in reverse.

  8. Move to other side and your done!!

I found this on the web. It contains the torque specs for the front bolts when retightening them. It can be useful information.



You can find a full section of Mustang springs by clicking here!!!
 

Comments

 

jjimenez said:

In case you all were wondering... I installed the STEEDA SPORT SPRINGS PART#ST-5558215

To see the before and after look take a look at one of my older blogs:

www.mylrs.com/.../05-08-steeda-sport-springs.aspx

December 30, 2008 8:05 AM
 

mike said:

what did you do to get the non deep dish bullit rims for the front? i love the deep dish look in the rear but all the kids i see for these cars are deep front and back.

January 2, 2009 11:33 PM
 

mike said:

what did you do to get the non deep dish bullit rims for the front? i love the deep dish look in the rear but all the kits i see for these cars are deep front and back.

January 2, 2009 11:33 PM
 

Chad said:

Looks good bro!  

January 3, 2009 3:41 PM
 

jjimenez said:

Mike, take a look at our wheel kit # WTK-186B8012 or click on the link below.

www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx

In my option they look way better than the dished front wheels that some people offer; not to mention that they have the correct offset to not push the wheel outside the fender.

January 5, 2009 9:30 AM
 

UltraKla$$ic said:

How did you get that GT500 spoiler on your GT bumper?  Any tips, tricks or a kit?

January 7, 2009 5:21 PM
 

jjimenez said:

UltraKla$$ic, It isn't all that hard. There are a few areas that you have to cut off. The wheel well mounts are the same. I used 4 self tapping screws from the underside to help support the chin spoiler to the bumper.

January 8, 2009 9:14 AM
 

UltraKla$$ic said:

Thanks jj!

I'll be calling you in the future for a GT bumper and some more indepth "instructions" on this mod!  LOL  

Exactly the route I want to go.    BTW, nice writeup on the spring installation!

January 8, 2009 11:16 AM
 

Hank said:

Dude im so confused, im in the middle of this. the rear went fine obviously, but i cant get the damn strut to compress enough to reattatch the sway bar linkage without a spring compressor, but i cant use a compressor cuz the bolts go up too far into the wheel well and cant compress the spring enough to relieve tension before they hit the top of the strut tower. ive looked up so many tutorials on this and they all skip the "details" of this step. is there a way to do it without compressors? or is there a better compressor tool that works better for this type of install? please help im so stuck. email me here: hankbobotek@gmail.com

thanks!

March 18, 2009 10:46 PM

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About jjimenez

I have and always will be a Mustang fanatic! My first car was a V6 Mustang after putting myself through college and LOTS of saving.... I recently purchased a 2008 Mustang GT. Most of my Mustang experience lies in the modular motors. My brother and I have built and swapped multiple mod motors in the past. We have perfected the SN95 V6 motor swaps!! LOL